Originally,
I planned to post photos from Cairo without a story. My stay was to be only a
few hours. My plan was to run around the
pyramids, watch the nightly light show and quickly return to the airport. I figured some of the best photos of my
journey would be from here.
When I inquired at the baggage office and information desk
about left luggage I got a surprisingly (though given my last brief visit to Cairo,
I guess I should not have been surprised) rude – “It isn’t possible!” and “Not
Allowed!” I quickly solved this problem
by booking a room online at a guest house a block away from the entrance to the
Sphinx. I just had to fight off the taxi
vultures for 10 minutes while doing so.
Empowered by
my previous research regarding Cairo taxi fares and experience avoiding scams
for the past 2 weeks, I plowed through the swarm of “taxi drivers” in the
arrival hall – all of whom only quietly muttered their promotional lines and
cower when you loudly state that you would rather get “a taxi from the official
stand outside”. I followed the signs to
the “Taxi Park”. However, I’m still not
sure if I found the official taxi park, but when I came to a row of black and
white cars in one area of the parking lot, I began negotiating with the
drivers. I followed my usual procedure
to go to the first car in the line. I
figure if there is an official procedure, I will be picking the right vehicle
and if there isn’t a procedure at least I will be randomly selecting a car
rather than ending up with the car with the most aggressive salesman. Whichever was the case - this time the
strategy backfired in a big way. The
driver of the car in pole position did come with recommendations from his colleagues.
“This driver is very, very good.” “He is
from the government”. In addition, he
had a home-laminated card around his neck that reportedly verified that he was
an “official taxi”. We settle on a
price, I get in the car, and the drive promptly turns too sharp to the right
and slams the side of his “taxi” into a concrete post at the edge of his
parking space. Fortunately, his pit crew
only needs to hand him the piece of trim that was knocked off through the
passenger side window and we are on our way.
The
next 10 minutes were uneventful and I started planning my run in my mind, when
suddenly traffic stops – on the freeway.
Not stop-and-go traffic – STOPPED traffic – on the freeway. After a few minutes, people began to take
matters into their own hands to find out what the delay is about by
getting out of their cars and walking…on
the freeway! The delay did, however,
allow me to watch the traffic which was flowing nicely in the other direction,
despite the presence of horse drawn carts…on the freeway!! Then after 10-15 minutes traffic began to
move again and was quickly free flowing as if nothing happened.
The
4-5 phone calls in the next 20 minutes made it all too clear that the driver
did not know where the guest house was.
However, given that he was traveling in the direction of Giza – I didn’t
worry too much. Outside of the traffic
jam, the most remarkable sight (and smell, and taste, and feel) on the trip
from the airport to Giza was the air pollution.
Cairo made what I had seen in Beijing and Kathmandu look like poster
children for environmental action.
The first
glimpse of the pyramid seemed to make the sacrifice worthwhile, as you could
see tip of the pyramid towering over the other buildings at sunset.
After the driver queried 5-6 people on the street regarding
the location of the guest house, it was clear he didn’t know where it was (not
surprising), but it also became clear that he didn’t even know how to get to
the Sphinx (alarming). With each
questioning we got a little bit closer and we finally got a good view of the
pyramids. I decided I better take the opportunity to shoot some video before
the sun went down. And then it happen…
At first I
thought the 2 guys that appeared out of the nowhere, as we were slowly moving
through traffic, were simply addressing the driver. Quickly, my instincts told me this may be a
distraction to get my camera or my bags.
I subtly stored my cameras, wallet and passport in my bags and leaned
across them, strategically grasping the handles to ensure there would not be a
quick grab-and-go operation. It was then
that the pirates boarded our vessel. The
captain jumped in the front passenger seat and given that my bags and I took up
the entire back seat, the first mate opted for a seat on the trunk of the
car.
I was
relieved when the ransom demand was the same as the shopkeeper on the
street. “You come see my shop, then I
show you hotel, because driver not know hotel”.
Fortunately, I was loaded with legitimate excuses – I had tickets to the
light show and it was starting in 20 minutes, I had to go back to the airport
in less than 2 hrs, etc. The captures
quickly moved to a simpler strategy – which was not clearly stated, but
understood by all – if you give me money, I will show the driver how to get to
the hotel now.
At this
point I decided to go on the offensive.
Over the years I have developed a relatively fool proof strategy. Whereas I used to dread the approach of the
aggressive foreign salesman that aims to make you feel uncomfortable, I know
opening engage them to gain the upper hand.
This is successful, when you understand a couple facts. First, although
their English appears fluent at first – they are often limited to a vocabulary
that is focused on their sales or scams.
Second, just as you are caught off guard when they engage you – they are
even more off guard when you engage them.
Finally, and most importantly, these guys are usually harmless and will
move on quickly when they find that you are not as vulnerable as they initially
thought.
With that in
mind, I started the banter with the captain.
If he is going to direct my driver to the guesthouse – I wanted to
interview him for the job. Does he know
the guest house? Is it a good guest
house? Does he often jump in cars and offer to direct people to their guest
house? And of course, how much does he charge?
He was not prepared to answer these questions, so just gave me the
standard “No problem, my friend” and “Yes, yes” - except for the price which he
decides to begin the negotiations at $20.
When I let him that is ridiculous and suggest I’ll think that I will just
get out here and grab another cab. He quickly changes the subject.
This doesn’t
help his cause much. When I say that I
am from the US, he lets me know that he has been to the US…California. What a coincidence I live in the state right
next to California – so ask which city did he go to? He is
clearly puzzled and doesn’t respond. So
I push the issue – What city? He finally
answers “New York.” When he asks me for
the second time where I am flying to tonight – I put him on the spot. “You know the answer to that question,
because you asked me a couple minutes ago”.
He grins sheepishly. I don’t let
him off easily, “Come on, you remember”.
I give him a hint, “Remember you went diving there with you uncle”. He correctly answers “Yes, Doha”.
All the
while, I have a general idea that we are going in the direction we need to go,
we are remaining in crowded traffic and I have a clear exit that I can employ
with my bags in hand if need be – so I am actually beginning to feel fortunate
that we have been provided this help with our navigation problem. Sure enough within a couple minute we arrive
at the entrance to the Sphinx and I am the first to spot the guest house,
despite the fact that I am the one from the other side of the world. Now I let the driver and pirates know the
terms of the deal - I am going to settle
all payments AFTER I get out of the car.
The captain had already downgraded his demand to $10 early in the route
– which was a decent price and since that was the smallest denomination I had and
I didn’t figure I was going to get change – I went with that as my ransom. The
driver I paid in Egyptian money. As I
walked away and the first mate plead from the top of the car, "What about a dollar for
me?" Feeling quite pleased with myself and a
little cocky at this point, I told him he should settle his wages with the
captain before he goes on the next mission.
In all honesty, there are dangerous associated with travel
and for all family and friends following me (especially Lila and the kids) –
this story should reaffirm my travel skills and hopefully make you realize that
I am in less danger that average.
Also, although this was a frustrating few hours in Egypt,
the overturned and burned car in my running picture and the entrenched tanks at
the airport and along the highway are stark reminders that the Egyptian people
have recently had far worse difficulties than I had this evening.
Wow! Great blog & pix; glad you knew what to do & are safe! Hope you are enjoying your Good Friday in Amman & were able to meet David Christof; praying for continued save travel to your next special city; Dennis, HB, CA
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